Thursday, 13 July 2017

NT Alice Springs, Standley Chasm, Simpsons Gap

Thursday 13 July Left Wauchope around 9 and soon saw water lying near road.  However, most of the scenery looked dry.
This statue at Aileron was a surprise.

Stressed about lack of internet and knowledge that Big 4 caravan park in Alice Springs was full.  Kept trying to phone places when signal available. Ended up at the Showground which only opens to tourists when the parks are full.
Had plenty of choice for a grassy spot and rejected ones too close to the Amenities (a mistake).  Same price, $30, whether on power or not.  Despite shortcomings of site (next to sewage pond, no washing machine), we stayed here for 4 peaceful nights.  The sewage pond was a magnet for birds but it was hard to get close enough to see them all.  We saw at least 6 swans, several coots, a few little black cormorants and some ducks I could not identify from afar.
Pipits, crows, crested pigeons, magpie-larks, willie wagtails, black-faced woodswallows made use of the grassy 'meadow'.
The showers and toilets are beyond the red bin in right background.
Friday 14 July
Peaceful night after dogs stopped barking.  Wondered if the pound is nearby.  Long noisy train around 7am - line is next door.  Sunny morning.  Much shopping in Alice which has all the usual stores from Coles, WW, Kmart, Target, Bunnings, Harvey Norman ...  The photos were taken in or around Todd Street Mall.
Aborigines were not camped in the dry Todd River and there seemed to be many areas with new modest housing.  A few looked rather unhealthy, too fat, short, faces misshapen, but there was little evidence of drunken behaviour.  Liquor stores don't open until 2pm.

The big event this week was the annual Camel Races, held right next door to our camping ground on Saturday 15 July.  It was an Apex fund raiser, $15 entry, no betting on races but 300 numbered "ducks" were tumbled in a cement mixer - $5 a ticket.
There were 'camel' races for kids and  an Ironman Rickshaw, in between real camel races. The hardest part of the camel races seemed to be the start - all camels have to sit down.
We were surprised that the crowd was not bigger but it was a happy lot with many kids on holidays.  Races started at 11:30 and ended at 4pm but we went 'home' around 2:30 and returned at 3:30.
 
The day ended with Henley on Todd Battleship Water Cannon Hose Off, the Pirates on Nauteus and the Vikings on (I forget).

On Sunday  it was very windy at the Showground and we hoped the weather would be better at Standley Chasm, 50km west.  It was.  The scenery in West MacDonnell Ranges was never boring.
Standley Chasm is located in a private flora and fauna reserve owned by the Iwupataka Land Trust and is operated by Aboriginal family members that are direct descendants from Aboriginal people that have lived in this area for thousands of years. They operate the café as a profitable concern with no funding and as a training facility for their children.
We walked the easy flat path through the chasm.
'Underneath the arches ...'
Angkerle Spring
Entrance to Chasm - Macrozamia macdonnellii, Callitris glaucaphyllam, Corymbia aparrerinja
Quite a few pretty flowers around.
Indigofera basedowii
Mistletoe Lysiana exocarpi
Ghost Gums
Hopbushes, Dodonea viscosa, lined the walk
The Larapinta Trail passes through the Chasm, so we detoured briefly to sample its difficulty.  I gave up very soon.
David continued for another 100m before deciding we couldn't cope (especially me).
Notice the cycads in many photos.  They are special to this region, Macrozamia macdonnellii, and the biggest ones may be 400 years old.
 The cafe was attractive and well patronised by assorted tourists including a bikie group.  Some may have been locals and there was entertainment on a lawn outside by a female folk singer/guitarist.  We enjoyed a coffee and I spied another walk to a lookout.

Walk to Lookout
View from Lookout
 I found the relatively short walk a bit steep but David  helped me.
View from our lunch spot outside cafe
We also walked at Simpsons Gap, not as spectacular but pretty enough and touted as THE place to see black-footed rock wallabies at dusk.
 An easy walk. 
Note NO SWIMMING sign.

Ficus brachypoda

THE GAP
THE RIVER
Acacia victoriae
Ghost Gum Corymbia aparrerinja
Corkwood  Hakea divaricata

Tuesday, 11 July 2017

NT Barkly Homestead, Tennant Creek, Wauchope

Left Cloncurry on 11 July, 2 hours after rising at 7:20.
I noticed pole bag sliding out from carrier - cap not attached in Cloncurry.  Put poles in car.
Drove 567 km to  Barkly Homestead past small hills, trees, termite mounds.  Gums in bud everywhere.  Shady site for our trailer. Had dinner there - $20 flathead for me, $28 barramundi for David, both good.  Beer was $5.90 a stubby.  Cheerful surroundings.
 
Turpentine bush Acacia chisholmii  Abundant along roadsides
Typical scene beside Sturt Highway
Next day, we drove 200 km to Wauchope, stopping to walk around Devil's Marbles.
The Devils Marbles are huge granite boulders scattered across a wide, shallow valley, 100 kilometres south of Tennant Creek.Formed by erosion over millions of years, the Devils Marbles are made of granite, which surfaces like an island in the desert. They vary in size, from 50 centimetres up to six metres across.
 I saw nothing in the billabong but a curious Yellow-throated Miner came by for a photo.
Stopped to look at some unusual  trees.

We visited the Tennant Creek Overland Telegraph Station which was connected to London in October 1872.  The cool meat store is in the centre foreground of this photo.

Office building on left; butcher 'shop' on right
 A school group was there also for a ranger-guided experience.
Science dealing with ants
Sturt's Desert Rose Gossypium sturtianum
Made a quick stop at Tennant Creek. Managed to get a $6 jacket for me at the Vinnies (my zipper stopped working) and a new cap for the pole carrier.  The hardware store manager drilled a hole in it for us so we could secure it properly.  We saw graffiti evidence of Aboriginal anti-police attitudes.  It seems most tourists go straight through en route to Alice Springs or Katherine.
Another 120 km and we were at Wauchope where we spent the night.  Had dinner at the hotel - fish & chips & beer, all good.

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